|Removing a strip of flooring will allow you to install a backer, to keep insulation in your wall|
The proper "fix" for this is a little involved but not out of the question for they typical old house person. What you have to do is add a 'stop' in the floor cavity. This is done by removing a piece of flooring near the outside wall. The easiest way to do this is use a cutting tool and cut the tongue by following the line between two pieces and then carefully prying up the board (Old houses do not have sub floors so this will expose the cavity). Later houses may have them and you have to also cut through that to get to the cavity.
|Staple, then foam around the backer and the heat will stay where it belongs|
Once you have this exposed you then need to cut a piece of Styrofoam insulation the size of the opening. Staple this or use some small wood stops to hold it in place. I then like to take insulating foam and go all around this area which totally seals it. You then replace the flooring piece and when you insulate your walls you will get a properly "packed/filled'" side wall. You will have nice warm floors because the air will rise up from the first floor and these will be no cold air pulled in from side walls.
|Once you have the window weight cavity open,add insulation then reinstall the top piece|
The next project was windows. Now our house has replacement windows (which will be replaced with historically correct wood units) and maybe your windows are OK but you will note that when you walk by them you still feel cold air. This is because they are improperly installed. All a window installer does is take out your old window sashes and install a new slightly smaller "insulated window' in that space. However old windows have a pocket on each side where the window weights are. The installer NEVER open those up and basically you have no insulation in those areas. This framework is what you see when you take the trim off you window frame and it sits before that. It isn't insulated (and it never is) the cold just migrates through this big cavity and is radiated right into the room. FYI those old lead window weights absorb cold nicely and its like having some big ice cubes in your wall. To fix this you need to open these up then either foam them or install bat insulation. Then reinstall them. I like to apply a bead of silicone caulk to the edges of the board before I put them back on as it gives me a tight seal. If you have any wood damage caused by prior leaks fix that before you do this fix.
|By taking advantage of this "found space" you can move your light up higher which is a big plus in a lowered ceiling space.|
The other project this week was drywall for the "raised area" in the fall that will be trimmed out and have a medallion for a small chandelier. This is a visual trick that you will appreciate more when the ceiling to this 'gallery hall" is complete. All I can say is this space will have a multi stenciled patterned ceiling and the overall effect will be quite nice.
|Lot of work to move a door over 8 3/4 inches|
|However, now the door can have a nice trim placed around it!|
Overall, a busy week.